There was much hubbub when Dominique Ansel Bakery opened last year. He hails from Daniel! He worked at Fauchon! Well, you know what? The hype was definitely worth it. The man can bake. Everything is exquisite AND delicious. So going to the bakery alone is problematic. I want to buy everything. I'm not kidding. Every pastry, every macaron, every mini meringue looks perrrfect. I want to buy/eat them all and wish there was zero consequence to my blood sugar, waist line or wallet. Unfortunately, that's not my reality so I must choose. For the first of many pilgrimages to come, I choose a DKA and a canelé...
A DKA is an abbreviation for Dominique’s Kouign Amann. A Kouign Amann (pronounced kween ahmon) is from Breton. Think of it like a chewy yet fluffy croissant that's been hit with a thin and crackly caramel stick. The results are stupendous. Buttery, chewy and crisp; sweet, salty and oh so satisfying. A-Ma-Zing.
A canelé is a custardy rum flavored "cake" with a toothy crust. Usually made in 2-inch fluted copper molds, they are mini but eggy rich. I used to make them at Balthazar Bakery and loved when they would come out of the oven since the smell was so intoxicating (especially at 7 o'clock in the morning - that heady whiff of rum - woo!). The awesome crusty crust comes from coating the molds in edible wax before pouring the batter in. Sounds weird and unappetizing but once you've had a freshly baked canelé, you forget how weird or unappetizing it originally sounded. These canelés are pretty phenomenal; the contrast in texture - firm outer crust to airy custard center, and heady rum flavor makes this treat very special.
Chef Ansel is there often. I don't know if this is still the case but it used to be that on Saturdays, he would bake mini madeleines to order. You could chat with him for the three minutes it would take to bake your order. Or you could just stand there in awe and bow in respect.
(Images, from the top! Fig and pistachio cake: an airy pistachio cake with glazed fresh figs and caramelized pistachios perched on a balsamic reduction-infused Greek yogurt mousse; white rose religieuse: double decker cream puffs with white rose and Tahitian vanilla flavored cream; chocolate caviar tart: mini chocolate "caviar" over a coffee caramel mousse; macarons; a basket of DKA; my DKA and canelé; seating in the covered greenhouse; Chef Ansel)